Sampling Culture http://samplingculture.posterous.com Most recent posts at Sampling Culture posterous.com Tue, 10 Mar 2009 04:22:39 -0700 Can Gourmet Burgers do well in the recession? http://samplingculture.posterous.com/2009/03/09/gourmet-burgers-in-recession http://samplingculture.posterous.com/2009/03/09/gourmet-burgers-in-recession Cabbagetown was my local neighbourhood beat for my reporting class last term. I wrote this article in November 2008 . It appeared in the Ryerson Free Press in February. Read the whole article below for details on the ever-changing Cabbagetown neighbourhood!

The grey-haired former restauranteur known as Trevor Barryman sits on a bar stool, to eat his gourmet burger with onion rings. He faced the window, looking at Parliament Street, on a Tuesday afternoon. He’s having his second burger in a week at the newly opened Gourmet Burger Co. in Cabbagetown.

Finishing a bite, Barryman says that people have been predicting the complete gentrification of this commercial strip for the last 30 years. He explained, “They told me it would be the next Yorkville.” He continued, “They were wrong.”

He said, “If someone told me they were opening up a hamburger place here I would have told them it was a terrible idea. Who would pay for a $13 lunch in this neighbourhood?” But, Barryman said that when he came in for his first burger on Saturday there was a line-up out the door.

This new burger joint faces the usual challenges of setting itself apart from the other restaurants that sell burgers in Toronto, and begs the question, can a gourmet burger joint do well and bring people in from other neighbourhoods?

In November, John Ward, 39, who is an experienced restauranteur and caterer from Australia, opened this burger restaurant at 482 Parliament Street. His new take out and small sit-in spot can appeal to a wide range of people with varying budgets - from those who want to pay $6 for a gourmet burger, to those would can afford $13 for a deluxe burger with sides and a drink.

Because of the diversity in income levels in the neighbourhood, Doug Fisher, staff of the Old Cabbagetown Improvement Area (BIA), says the businesses that do best here appeal to the largest spectrum of incomes. Fisher said that like a hardware store, which everyone likes, the same may be true for buying lunch. According to Fisher, “A burger place also appeals to everyone.” Fisher says the Gourmet Burger Co. has a great chance of gaining loyal customers from across the city.

A walk along Parliament Street reveals a real mix of restaurants. There are older dinners, ethnic take-away places and gourmet restaurants, alongside organic butchers, dollar stores and the discount no-frills grocery store. According to Fisher, the rents in this commercial sector range from $1,500 to $5,000 a month. He said, “Our rents are lower that those on Church Street, so they are a bargain for business owners because they can still get customers from some of the nearby neighbourhoods for a third the rental price.” He said that the rental costs have been inching up, but not to the point that older businesses are being priced out.

Walking the streets there are panhandlers, renters from James Town and Regent Park, students and home-owning professionals. On Parliament there are no exquisite floral or chocolate stores, upscale clothing boutiques or bookstores. For a long time the area has not even had a Starbucks (although one is going to open soon in the same block as Gourmet Burger Co.) If you were walking along Parliament Street, you might never guess that just a few blocks east is a neighbourhood that boasts million-dollar homes.

On the west side of Parliament Street, in the first block north of Cartlon, Spiros Maniatos owns the block of buildings. They currently house a dollar store, Johnny G’s Diner, and now – Gourmet Burger Co.

Fisher said, “Based on my blog research, there seems to be a lot of talk about Gourmet Burger Co.” He said the key for businesses in Cabbagetown that aim to attract people with higher incomes is to draw people into the neighbourhood. Fisher said he thinks that Gourmet Burger Co. can potentially draw people from outside, as a few other businesses in the area have done.

John Lee, the owner of Omi, a sushi restaurant that moved into the area in November, said that business has been very good since the move from Church Street. He said, “We have a lot of our existing customers and the neighbourhood locals coming to our new location.” He said he gets around 70 per cent of his business from his existing customers, and the remaining 30 per cent from Cabbagetowners.

At a home furnishing store, Mi Casa, which has been in the area for 20 years, the manager, Andrew Halkewycz, said they draw roughly 60 per cent of their customers from outside of the neighbourhood, and around 40 per cent are Cabbagetowners.

In spite of the few stores that regularly draw people into the neighbourhood, Fisher said Cabbagetown has not become a destination spot, like the Distillery District or Church Street. “People don’t wake up on a Saturday and say ‘Let’s go to Cabbagetown.’ The neighbourhood is still a locally serving area, with businesses largely there to suit the local populations,” he said.

There are many well-known long-standing restaurants on Parliament Street that Cabbagetowners frequent. Fisher said, “Gourmet Burger Co has a good chance to compete.”

Sure enough, every pub in the area serves a burger; but, Gourmet Burger Co. is the only place specializing in various kinds of unique burgers. Fisher said, “I had a smokey bacon burger with fries and spent around $10. I could have spent less on their normal burger with condiments for $5.50, but I was happy to pay more for the unique toppings. I think they have a good broad price range for their customers.”

A glance at the menu at Gourmet Burger Co posted on the meticulously hand-written signs above the ordering counter reveals that in addition to the cheaper basic burger, the signature suggestions made by owner John Ward, range in price from $5.95 to $9.95.

Down the street, the popular House on Parliament pub offers their basic burger with sweet potato fries for $12.38, around $4 more than at Gourmet Burger Co. The Pear Tree, Ben Wicks Bar & Bistro, Big Mamma’s Boy, JAM café, and Stonegrill all offer burgers with sides ranging in price from $7.99 to $16. At these restaurants the burgers are among the lowest-priced items on their menus.

Fisher said, “If you sell only a burger, you need to sell more.” John Ward says he is selling between 100 to 175 burgers a day, which is quite good, according to Geoff Wilson, a restaurant consultant in Mississauga, who did a quick calculation of Ward’s sales and costs.

Wilson said that the decision a potential customer makes to buy a gourmet burger versus one from McDonalds will be based on a couple of factors. “Is the customer in the group that has been significantly influenced by the trend of ‘premiumization’? If so, that customer will be looking for more than just a regular burger, and if it’s different they are prepared to pay more. It has to have an enhanced flavour profile and a more appealing quality proposition. They have to want to buy it for the experience rather than just for filling up their stomach,” he said.

Ward says he has the differential gourmet aspect covered. He’s offering customizable burgers with the toppings they want, and including some unique Australian options – fried egg and beets - which are common in his home country’s standard burger, but found rarely (if ever) in Toronto. Furthermore he says he’ll soon be introducing a burger of the week with either salmon, bison, or pulled pork. Currently he has chicken, beef, and lamb burgers on offer with toppings like avocado, bacon, pineapple, gouda and brie.

At around 3:00 p.m. on Tuesday, Ward’s wife and two-month-old son visit the restaurant. Ward says he’s happy to have started this new business, after owning six other successful ones in the last 14 years. He says he’s glad, because with the restaurant he won’t be working late night pub hours, and he can spend more time with his son. Ward says he is up for the challenge of serving anyone who enjoys good food. He said he wants Gourmet Burger Co. to be like a good pizza place: “Everyone enjoys it… 12 year olds and grandmothers. It transcends age. I want people to leave here saying it was the best burger they ever had.”

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Mon, 09 Mar 2009 00:45:13 -0700 A Look at OCAP that defies stereotypes http://samplingculture.posterous.com/2009/03/08/a-look-at-ocap-that-defies-stereotypes http://samplingculture.posterous.com/2009/03/08/a-look-at-ocap-that-defies-stereotypes Published in February 2009, for the Ryerson Free Press. At the office of the Ontario Coalition Against Poverty (OCAP), three desks are squished together in a bunker-like room without windows. Three metal filing cabinets are labelled “Immigration”, “OCAP”, and “Organization History.” A pile of protest banners leans against the wall. The walls are plastered with posters such as: “Fight to Win: March on Queens Park, 2000” and “Convergence 2010. No Olympics on Stolen Land. No Social Cleansing. No Eco-Destruction.” Others are in Portuguese with images of Brazilian workers. It’s clear that the coalition’s work in Toronto is connected to global struggles. As I wait, four activists arrive from Montreal. A mother among them has a newborn and carries the requisite baby bag with snacks and toys. So much for that militant-activist stereotype. Some city politicians, residents, and academics claim that OCAP takes an extreme approach in its representation of a vocal minority. But, on a symbolic level, the coalition speaks not just for the panhandlers visible to us, but also for the invisible poor. Its members speak for those who are too ashamed to fight for a right to government housing and for an increased minimum wage. The organizers at the coalition create a process that is politicizing for those who want to be involved, and forums for protests about broader issues. As a direct action anti-poverty group, the coalition advocates in Toronto’s City Hall for the poorest people. People who are often referred to as an underclass, those who can’t contribute to society, who are frequently classified as deserving or undeserving, without any examination of the larger economic context. The coalition advocates assertively, frequently breaking the rules. It plays a controversial role in Toronto’s political scene. It sometimes successfully gets homeless people on the map in a terrain that is otherwise dominated by stakeholders with power – the people in suits: developers, politicians, and residents’ groups. The trouble is that not everyone is aware of the work it does beyond its notoriously loud protests. In early September 2008, one city councillor’s constituency assistant spoke to me about the different communities in his ward. When OCAP came up, he rolled his eyes. He’s not the only one who appears to shrug off the coalition as merely a radical activist organization. For most liberal citizens, the idea of a poor people’s unruly protest is unsettling. It reminds us of revolution, and the reversal of power that took place during significant times in history, like the French Revolution, when people demanded bread and got angry at the royalty, chopping off their heads for their presumptive sense of entitlement. The working classes were hungry and the ruling class disdained them. The anger that citizens had then was unbounded and brought them together in a frightening force. Clearly they had nothing to lose. Today, many people still find direct-action protest tactics to be in bad taste and, on a subconscious level, terrifying. The large number of police at some protests exemplifies the hyper-vigilance of the city trying to maintain order and the status quo. A journalism professor at Ryerson University, April Lindgren, who is familiar with Toronto politics, and who is a former Queen’s Park bureau chief, also shared her doubts about the coalition’s reputation. She said, “Their use of sometimes violent means – organizing the riot on the Queen’s Park lawn a few years ago – undermines their cause.” But the coalition has a different idea about what it is doing. On Oct. 4, 2008, the coalition marched along Parliament Street to “take back Cabbagetown.” According to its website, it “made it clear that poor people who live in the neighbourhood and use services in the neighbourhood are staying in the neighbourhood.” At the local Business Improvement Area (BIA), Doug Fisher said business owners were not impressed with the coalition’s loud and annoying protest against gentrification. Inside the coalition’s tiny one-room office near the Moss Park Armory, two organizers, both part-time staff at the organization, AJ Withers and Kelly Bentley, explained that they go to city council meetings to remind the councillors of things we would rather not be reminded of. They say they provide access to politicians in a way that most poor people can’t have alone. “What approach are people supposed to take when they are living in dire conditions?” Withers asked. “We…organize people to take action. So if squeamish liberals and reactionaries don’t like us, we don’t give a crap.” She added that they went to council last year to let councillors know that shelter beds are infested with bed bugs and that tuberculosis was going around. They demanded that more beds be made available. But, Withers said, councillors tell them there are enough beds, and they brush off the fact that shelters aren’t safe. She said, “They are not on the front lines dealing with people.” Most people don’t know about the range of work that the coalition does. Withers said, “Our protests are aimed at broad-scale change, but we wouldn’t be responsible as an organization if that’s all we did. We believe in our Band-Aid day-to-day solutions for people too, and that’s where our case work comes in.” They compile a list of affordable housing from newspaper listings to distribute to agencies working with low-income clients. They advise people on legal matters when possible, and on welfare, if they have problems. Withers said they give people the tools to solve problems for themselves, and sometimes they call the welfare offices on their behalf. She said they get around 20 people a week asking for help. In addition to working with the downtown sector, the coalition also supports a group of Somali women in Rexdale. It has a community among the homeless population and ask people to come to meetings and speak at protests. Bentley said, “I work with Ontario Disability Support Plan recipients to process their social-assistance forms. They know that OCAP is there to support them, and I think it gives them a sense of security and belonging. At the same time, as we tell them about our research, they tell us what is happening on the street.” But, Withers admitted, “The homeless community is transient… Our membership is more fluid.” Since it formed in 1989, the coalition has held frequent general membership meetings. Until 2001, it had support and funding from the Canadian Auto Workers union, but that relationship ended after a series of incidents which the union could not support. According to the coalition, the actions that ended the relationship – such as evicting then-Ontario Finance Minister Jim Flaherty from his office because the eviction rate had skyrocketed while he was in power – were some of their most successful. Withers said that when the union pulled their funding, even a poll on City TV indicated the popularity of the coalition’s actions. Withers explained, “We never let our funders control what we do. That makes things hard, but it’s the way we have integrity.” Withers also noted the role of the media, stating, “If we sign someone up to get welfare, nobody cares, but anything we do that is sensational gets into the news.” According to Withers, another misperception of the media is about the coalition’s dealings with the police. Withers said, “Lots of times police do something outrageous, like they take a child away from a mother during a protest, but instead of letting them do that, we support people to defend themselves against police violence.” She adds, “How democratic is it if you have to protest in a benign way? We want to express the urgency and the change that people need.” Withers said, “We are building a poor people’s movement… I think that the detractors of our organization are a testimony to our effectiveness. It’s a serious fight and you’d expect that we would be loved and hated.” But moments after Withers insisted pugnaciously on the need to break some rules, Bentley asked, “Where can we send people for Christmas help?” Once again, any impression of the coalition as a simple extremist group is shattered.

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